Rapid fire Hex

no i think that there getting readdy for mw2 and just testing to see if they will keep it

I have new code on the way. He gave it to me for free since I just purchased a couple of weeks ago. As soon as I get it, I will send it to those who purchased. He said it's a little slower, but works great and beats the patch.

Steve

CollinstheClown wrote:

I'm STILL waiting for my programmer to get here so I havn't been able to do any rapid at all.

I got mine today and I think we ordered within days of each other. Don't know if you bought from the same person though...

Steve

If you bought from the person you linked to on ebay then yeah same person.

I just got mine earlier today. Didn't get to play with it yet because of stupid work.




-CollinstheClown

It was a tad tricky getting it set up, but the instructions are pretty clear. I don't think you will have a problem, but if you do, let me know and I can help you out.

Steve

The chips I have now with Hex on them from another vendor, with code prior to the latest COD5 patch...the code is all zeros. What does that mean? Is it encrypted?

Steve

Most likely. I guess you could go out and buy a rapid fire kit, simply to read the chip if it wasn't. I think we're safe though, for the reason that most probably encrypt their chips. I don't think anyone would take the time and money to buy 50 different chips simply to get a code.

Strange. Regarding your email, it appears that because I checked it on my phone it changed the file type or something... I have no idea. I downloaded the .hex with my phone and transfered it.

I am having a problem though. I have it all installed but it can't see the chip. I tried pin 11 both ways and it doesnt see it. I tried another programming software and get the same result.

Any ideas?




-CollinstheClown

I had the same problem getting the chip recognized, but the guy I bought the code from helped me out. Turns out my orientation of the chip was wrong.

First off, I'm assuming you got the software installed correctly, switched to the correct com port (the one you installed the board to), etc, etc. You are using a 12F683, right?

If above is all correct and true, this is how you want the chip:
With the lock down lever at the top, from the bottom if you count up 4 slots you will see like a little wall. You want the bottom legs of the chip to be just on the other side (above) of that wall, which is 5 slots from the bottom. You want the notch and/or dot to be orientated up towards the lock down lever. So to reiterate, the bottom legs of your chip will start 5 slots from the bottom and go up towards the lever, with the notch/dot facing up.

That's what worked for me, after I got the chip in right it was recognized perfectly.

Steve

P.S. I kinda wondered about the code, I couldn't see how it was different than what I sent, especially since I sent it to all three of you at once and everyone else got the correct file. Did you get it correctly now, or are you still having problems? Let me know if you need it sent again.

Yeah, I have it all set up correct. The software tells me to put pin 1 on the chip in pin 11 (from the top down). The way you told me would be pin 13. I've tried both to no success, eve tried 2 usb cables. I just tried every pin, still no luck.

Do me a favor, got o File | programmer > | and tell me which one is selected. Mine is set to K149_A.

I'm going to reinstall the driver for it, maybe that will help.




-CollinstheClown

Ok, that's your problem, you need 149-BC

Once you get it adjusted, it will say to put it in pin 13

Steve

Thats the thing, I've tried both. Neither work... I'd try the serial port, but who the hell has the sereal port anymore?




-CollinstheClown

Did you go in and adjust the com port inside the software? It's defaulted at 1. Something is not right because mine won't even let me select something else, if I do, it goes right back to 149-BC. Once you get things installed and adjusted right, it auto identifies the board you have.

Did you get the link to the instructions with yours?

Steve

Yeah, it auto identified as K149_A, and I have mine on COM6 which is what device manager tells me is te USB Serial Port.

BRB, I'm restarting and reinstalling the driver. You should get on AIM or MSN, or perhaps the chatbox. might be easier.




-CollinstheClown

Hey Chiefs, neither of the emails from you came though right for me, I had to forward them to myself before they worked. Just thought you might want to know.

Were they ".mim" ?




-CollinstheClown

SR2K wrote:

Hey Chiefs, neither of the emails from you came though right for me, I had to forward them to myself before they worked. Just thought you might want to know.

That's really weird. Maybe because I grouped all your names together, IDK.

Nopr you actually sent the first one directly to me.

Oh, so you mean the first one didn't work either? Now that IS weird cause your the only one who had a problem. Very strange.

What do you think about the all zeros in the code I read off my chips I have now from a different vendor? You think they are encrypted?

Steve

yeah thats what the zeros mean.

Barney wrote:

yeah thats what the zeros mean.

Yeah kinda figured. Thanks.

Steve

You can still use those chips if they are old code. Just erase and program with new code. Sorry if you already know that, but I figured I'd put it out there so you didn't waste your chips.

Yeah, I knew that, but thanks! I was just wondering if the programmer didn't read the chip right or it was encrypted. Thanks again.

Steve

hey guys i got a quite a few chips that need reprogramming. i use them mode 1 halo, mode 2 cod, and mode 3 cod 5. also they were sync button chips. if i can get the same thing that would be great.

Like I said I can probably do that, but it might be a while. If someone else wants to take them I'm fine with it. Does this code use the sync? I still haven't gotten the software.